An Ultimate Guide To Lash Mapping For Beginners

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Nowadays, the lash industry is booming thanks to the high demand of lash enhancement procedures like lash lifts and eyelash extensions.

A specialist doing eyelash extension to a woman with lash mapping on the undereye

If you’re planning to try a lash business, you need to be a certified lash technician to operate it and to perform the lash procedures confidently and skillfully.

Apart from mastering the skills of eyelash extension application, you also need to perfect the artistry of lash mapping to create the perfect customized set of eyelash extensions for every client you have.  

Lash mapping is a technique for planning which thickness, curls, and lengths you will use to create a bombshell set of lash extensions. 

With lash mapping, you can adjust the level of drama and style that your client wants and ensure that what they want suits their natural lashes and eye shape.

Sounds like a tall order, doesn’t it?

Don’t worry! If you don’t know anything about lash mapping, we’ll take you through the basic information about lash mapping — creating a lash map, choosing popular lash maps, and knowing important tips when mapping eyelash extensions.

What Is a Lash Map?

A lash map is a reference guide that shows the different sections of the eye and helps you map out the placement of individual lashes. 

During the lash mapping process, the lash artist will measure and mark the natural lash line, consult with the client to discuss their desired look, and create a customized lash map based on important factors. 

A lash map typically includes an eye diagram with numbered sections corresponding to different areas of the lashes. 

For example, section 1 may refer to the inner corner of the eye, while section 5 may refer to the outer corner. 

Some lash maps may also include information about the desired length, thickness, and curl of the individual lashes. 

These are helpful for both the technician and the client as they provide a visual representation of the final look and help ensure that the client’s expectations are met.

Lash maps also help ensure that the individual lashes are evenly and symmetrically applied to create a natural, cohesive look. 

Important Factors to Consider Before Lash Mapping

Before starting the lash extensions mapping process, consultation with your client is crucial to understand their desired look and discuss any specific requests or concerns.

However, you should advise them otherwise if needed. Remember that longer, more dramatic lashes won’t always be the best look.

Here are some important factors you should consider before creating a customized lash map for your client.

Eye Shape

Your client’s eye shape can affect how the extensions will be applied depending on their preferences and the look they want to achieve. 

For example, clients with round eyes may require a different lash mapping technique than those with almond-shaped eyes.

If you have round-shaped eyes, you need to make your eyes look elongated with lash extensions. Hence, you need a cateye lash map. 

Meanwhile, almost any lash map is suitable for almond eyes. However, some clients would opt for lash extensions that make their eyes bigger and rounder rather than elongated. To achieve this look, they may need a doll-eye lash map. 

Eye Area

You must consider assessing the overall health and condition of the client’s eye area. Look for any signs of irritation, redness, or sensitivity that may affect the procedure.

Eye Angle

You should know the eye angles of your clients to tailor the perfect eyelash extensions for them. Your client’s eyes may be slightly downturned, upturned, or straight. Certain lashes will flatter different eye angles.

Brow Shape

Don’t forget to consider your client’s brow shape and choose a lash extension that will complement their brows well.

Natural Lash Curl

A close up of a woman's eye with long lashes.

The natural lashes grow in different directions, and these differ from one person to another. Some people have downward-pointing lashes, some have naturally straight lashes, while others are blessed with naturally curly lashes.  

If you know your client’s natural lash curls, you’ll be able to determine the perfect curls to use for their lashes to bring out the best in their eyes.

You can guarantee that their eyes won’t look weird or get hidden by lash extensions.

Natural Lash Length

Your client may want to have extremely full or long lashes.

However, remember that the type of lash extensions they can get also depends on the health and strength of their natural lashes.

Hence, their natural lashes may or may not be able to support super dramatic or long lash extensions.

If they have delicate, fine lashes, they won’t be able to support the weight of 12- to 13-mm length extensions.

Client’s Lifestyle

Consider the client’s daily activities and any potential factors that may impact the wear and longevity of the extensions.

For example, someone who swims or sweats heavily on a regular basis may require more frequent touch-ups than someone who has a more sedentary lifestyle.

After evaluating your client, let them know what lash look you’re planning to create for them and discuss any possible adjustments you have to make and explain why. 

Things You Need for Lash Mapping

To execute the lash mapping method correctly, prepare the tools you need. Here are the important things that can help you create a lash map for your clients:

Colored Pen

A colored pen is key to mapping the lashes more precisely. Make sure to choose smudge-proof high-quality pens to facilitate a correct and quick lash mapping process.

The red ones are what most lash techs use but any high-quality colored pen that contrasts with the lashes will do. 

Undereye Gel Pads

Gel pads will be placed over the client’s lower lashes as you work. Like pens, you also need to get the best quality gel pads, like these under-eye gel pads from LANKIZ, which are lint-free and comfortable to wear. 

Directly apply it right below the tips of the client’s bottom lashes. With these pads, you can effortlessly write on them. 

Lash extensions

These are the artificial lashes that will be applied to natural lashes after creating the lash map. They can come in different lengths, thicknesses, and curls to create different looks.

If you want to aim for great results and to guarantee client satisfaction, you should prioritize investing in high-quality lashes. 

Step-by-Step Guide on How to Do Lash Mapping

There are a few different ways to perform lash mapping. However, the basic process is the same. Here’s a step-by-step eyelash mapping guide for a basic lash map.

Assessing the Client’s Eyes

  1. Begin by observing your client’s eye shape. Remember to take note of the outer and inner corners of their eyes and the eyelid’s length and width.
  2. Then take a look at the natural lash line. See where the lashes are dense and where they are sparse.
  3. As soon as you learn your client’s natural lash line and eye shape, you can begin planning your lash map and deciding which thickness, curls, and lengths of eyelash extensions you will use and where you plan to place them.

Preparation

  1. Make sure to thoroughly clean the client’s natural eyelashes before working on them and creating a lash map.
  2. Place the eye pads right below the tips of the natural lower lashes.
  3. Use the lash tape to hold them down and keep them from moving.
  4. Make sure your client is as comfortable as possible with the pad placement. Ask if anything is bothering them.

Marking the Sections

Here’s a tutorial on the basic foundation you can build on in creating a lash map regardless of the eyelash extension style you want to make for your clients.

  1. Get your colored pen and use it to write on the gel pads.
  2. Find the outside corner of your client’s eye and create a line on the eye pads.
  3. Do the same thing on the inner corner and the center point where the pupil is.
  4. Proceed to do the same process on the other side.
  5. Then mark a halfway point between the lines you made.
  6. After marking the halfway points, you’ll have four sections on the eye pads.
  7. Regardless of what eyelash extension style you’ll be doing, create a half-centimeter mark right next to the outside corner line to keep the lashes looking lifted.  

Adding the Numbers

At this point, the lash mapping will involve numbers. The numbers on the lash map indicate the lengths of the lash extensions.

You can use them as your guide during your lash extension application to create the perfect lash extension for your clients.

Note:  This sample lash map is for a basic cat eye shape.

  1. For a basic cat eye, you need to create a gradual length to keep the lid exposed and create the cat eye lift.
  2. You need a short length, like 9 mm, on the inner corner of your eye. Write 9 down on the inner eye sections of your gel pads.
  3. Use a 10 mm length on the way to the center. Write 10 on those sections of your gel pads.
  4. Follow it with 11 mm at the center point.
  5. Continue with lengths 12 mm to 13 mm.
  6. Then place a 10 mm length on the half-centimeter mark you created earlier next to the outer line to make your lashes look lifted.
  7. As soon as your lash design is mapped out, you can finally start the application of eyelash extensions.

Using the Lash Map

Now you can use the lash map you’ve drafted as a guide for applying the right lash extension sizes, and you can rest assured that every lash extension will be placed on the right spot.

Once the eyelash extensions are placed, step back and admire your craft. Take a photo. Your client will be satisfied with the results!

For a detailed visual demonstration of how to do lash mapping on different lash styles, here’s a video you can use as your guide:

Lash Mapping Tips to Remember

If you’re new to lash mapping, these tips will help you improve your skills and perfect every lash extension set you create. 

Lash Mapping Is a Trial-and-Error Process

When lash mapping, do not be afraid to experiment with various designs until you create something that perfectly suits your client’s eyes and desired look.

Every Person’s Eyes Are Different

Just because one design of a lash map works for one client doesn’t mean it’ll work for all your clients. Ensure to customize your eyelash mapping designs to every client you get.

Take Your Time

Remember lash mapping isn’t a process that needs to be rushed. So take your time when creating a lash map for your clients.

This way, you can guarantee that the eyelash extensions are done properly and seamlessly, leaving your client with the most gorgeous set of lashes as soon as they leave the salon.

Document Your Work

If you want to flex your lash mapping skills to potential clients, don’t forget to take before and after photos of your lash map outputs.

This way, you can review your work and see if you can improve in some areas to perfect the art of lash mapping.

Benefits of Lash Mapping

There are several benefits of lash mapping:

More Natural and Seamless Look

A close up of a woman's green eyes with her long lashes.

Lash mapping allows the lash artist to customize the placement of the lashes according to the unique characteristics of a client’s natural lash line. 

This helps to create a more natural and seamless look, as the lashes blend in more seamlessly with the client’s natural lashes.

Better Lash Extension Placement and Retention

Proper lash mapping ensures that the lashes are placed correctly and evenly, improving the lashes’ retention. When the lashes are placed correctly, they are less likely to become misaligned and fall out. 

Enhances the Shape and Appearance of the Eye

Lash mapping allows the lash artist to customize the lashes’ placement to enhance the eye’s shape and appearance. The lashes are strategically planned and placed in the right areas to lift and open up the eye or to create a more dramatic and defined look.

Customized Look

Lash mapping allows the technician to create a customized look for each client based on their lash line and desired style.

Quicker Application Time

Lash mapping helps the technician plan out the extensions’ placement in advance, allowing for a quicker and more efficient application process.

Common Lash Map Styles

Lash techs can use different guidelines of lash mapping styles to create different looks. 

But since every eye is different, make sure to adapt if needed, and never let the eyelash extension mapping guide restrict your artistic flair!

Here are the most common mapping styles used to create the most suitable eyelash extensions for every client:

Doll-Eye Lash Mapping

Perfect for wide-set eyes, hooded eyes, almond eyes, monolid, and downturned eyes.

Doll eyelash extension mapping uses the longest lash extensions above the center of the eye and shorter lashes at every corner of the eye, which results in bigger, rounded, and more open eyes. 

Cat Eye Lash Map

Perfect for round eyes, close-set eyes, almond eyes, monolid eyes, hooded eyes, and downturned eyes.

Cat eye lashes mapping involves applying longer individual lashes to the outer corner of the eye and tapered shorter ones toward the inner corner, creating a winged or cat-eye effect and giving the illusion of wider eyes. 

This is the perfect lash map for hooded eyes!

Kim K / Wispy Lash Map

Perfect for round eyes, hooded eyes, and almond eyes.

The Kim K lashes are today’s most in-demand lash styles in salons. This lash style is done by placing longer lash lengths or spikes in different parts of the eye, creating a wispy set.

Hybrid / Beachy Lash Mapping

Perfect for round and almond eyes.

A hybrid or beachy lash map greatly resembles the Kim K lashes but looks more natural. You can do this versatile eyelash style with volume lashes, classic lashes, or both lash techniques. 

The appropriate style will depend on the client’s preferences and the client’s natural lash characteristics. 

It is important to discuss the desired look with the client before beginning the treatment and to follow proper lash mapping techniques to achieve the desired result.

Lash Mapping: The Key to Perfect Lash Extension Sets

Overall, lash mapping is an important part of the eyelash extension application process as it creates a natural, seamless, customized look for the client.

Aside from that, you can enhance the appearance of the eyes and improve the lash extension retention of your clients with proper lash mapping.

Once you master the art of lash mapping and the different lash mapping guides, your clients will be satisfied and may willingly come back to become your regular clients!

Want to read more articles about lash extensions?

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Authors

  • Stephanie Martin

    Stephanie Martin blends her beauty industry background with expertise in communications to lead in the fashion and beauty world. As a fashion and beauty editor, she is known for engaging and informative articles. Her lifelong passion for fashion, makeup, and hair shines through her work, earning her widespread respect among readers and clients. Stephanie's style, a mix of classic and contemporary, makes her a dynamic and influential figure in the industry, inspiring others with her knowledgeable and approachable insights.

  • Mary Lois Jhie-an Garchitorena

    A seasoned beauty expert and permanent makeup artist with a rich educational background from top international academies, including Yumi Lashes and PhiAcademy. Her career began in 2017 out of a passion for enhancing natural beauty, leading her to master various aesthetic treatments and PMU. Mary has learned from grand masters like Dovile Zilinskaite and Anastasia Gilmanova, ensuring her clients receive unparalleled service. Despite challenges, she continues to thrive as a home-based artist, committed to delivering excellence and innovation in beauty aesthetics.

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